Must-see places
The most accessible surf spot in the country next to one of its most beautiful bays.
Listed in the Top 10 places to visit in New Caledonia!
The most accessible surf spot in the country next to one of its most beautiful bays.
Listed in the Top 10 places to visit in New Caledonia!
The Roche Percée peninsula stretches from the Bonhomme de Bourail to the mouth of the Néra. The site was originally an island, but a dike and road were built to enable the inhabitants to settle. The Roche Percée, a symbol of the area, gets its name from its arch, carved some time in the past like a “hole” in the cliff. The water forced its way through here, and you used to be able to see the sea in the background. This picturesque setting collapsed in August 2006, a victim of erosion. Today, the rock is still there, but it’s forbidden to go near its base, given the ever-present risk of a landslide.
Adjacent to the Roche Percée cliff, Le Bonhomme is a large quartz rock sculpted by the waves. It looks like a leaning man. The monolith, called Boué Taoué in Kanak, is the subject of an ancestral legend. The Orôê and Neku tribes recount that it is here that the deceased enter the “realm of the dead” through the doorway of an underwater grotto. On arriving at the famous hole in the cliff, the soul of the deceased is judged by the elders. When it arrives in front of the Bonhomme, he checks each ear: if the lobe is not pierced, then the soul is thrown to the evil spirits, snakes, and sharks. If pierced correctly, then the deceased can enter the kingdom. Even today, some elders claim to hear the sound of the deceased leaping into the waves to enter the “kingdom”…
The Roche Percée beach, right next to the cliff and its Bonhomme, is very popular with surfers and photography enthusiasts. It is 3 km long and made of volcanic sand from Vanuatu. Its location opposite the Popinée channel in Gouaro Bay explains its high swell. The waves it creates are ideal for surfing and bodyboarding. Snowboarders flock here in droves, as it’s the only beach break in New Caledonia. Surfers can reach this spot on foot, without needing a boat to get to the reef. You can learn to surf and stand-up paddle at the Gouaro Surf Club. The Nëkwéta Surf Camp also rents out equipment, and ferries surfers to the waves of the coral reef.
In the early evening, to admire and photograph the sunset over Le Bonhomme and the hill beside it.
Another highlight is the lively evenings at the La Roche snack bar, which sometimes hosts small concerts in a friendly atmosphere.
The Roche Percée site and its neighbouring Baie des tortues host an exceptional event every year. During the austral summer, loggerhead sea turtles (Caretta caretta) come to lay their eggs on these two beaches, the second-largest nesting site in the South Pacific. For two months (usually December and January), the Southern Province and the Aquarium des Lagons organise on-site discovery tours. You can watch this magical show in a supervised environment. The activity is regulated to protect the species, in close collaboration with the West Coastal Zone Committee (ZCO) and the Bwärä Tortues Marines association. The association’s members carry out surveillance of egg-laying sites. They also raise awareness and monitor the turtles.
Did you know? Once they reach adulthood, the females return to the beach where they were born and lay their eggs. The males, on the other hand, never return to dry land.
Just north of the Roche Percée beach, opposite the Popinée channel, lies the Baie des Tortues. To admire it from afar, head to the foot of the Bonhomme rock or to the top of the cliff. It can be reached on foot or by car along a narrow path. It’s a marvellous beach with Araucaria pines tree. This paradisaical setting is ideal for a picnic or to dip your feet. However, swimming is prohibited due to dangerous currents. The Trois Baies trail explores the Baie de la Roche Percée, the Baie des Tortues, and the Baie des Amoureux. The beautiful route meanders through the bays for 4 kilometers. It alternates between magnificent high viewpoints, before skirting the beaches.
Rare on the coast of the West Coast, the Araucaria pines trees around Turtle Bay are the stuff of ancient legend.
It is said that they were planted there to signify that under each tree, a great man is buried.
The tree marks out sacred and taboo places. The soul of a deceased person passes in front of them before being transported to Green Island. The soul is then projected towards the stars from the tops of the pine trees.
The Forêt des Cycas trail starts in the middle of Roche Percée beach. It is located on a listed natural site and contains a wide variety of plants endemic to New Caledonia. For 2 km, you pass through dry forest and dense, shady mangroves. Botanical signage helps you spot the different plant species of the dry forest. Don’t forget your mosquito repellent!
At the eastern end of the site is the mouth of the River Nera, and the Roche Percée nautical base. In the past, the site was an important seaport for river and sea communications. Many passengers and goods disembarked here. In 1944, it also served as a leisure complex for New Zealand soldiers on leave for a few months. Today, it’s from the nautical base that you embark on a scuba diving, surfing session or excursion to Île Verte. Diving enthusiasts are in for a treat at the false channel of Île Verte, at the large Kélé elbow or at the faille de l’îlot Shark, with Scub’Addict. You can also practice other water sports at the base, such as bodyboarding, stand-up paddling, Va’a or sea kayaking..
Tips you need to know
Getting there
Distance from Nouméa: 167 km (2 hours)